This Salisbury Street deck had reached the point where it wasn’t safe to use. The boards had gone, the steps had gone with them, and what had been a good outdoor space had turned into something the family had to think twice about walking on. It’s a common way for a deck to end its life — the frame underneath is often still sound long after the surface has given up. It went back down in WoodEvo Victorian Maple.
Before quoting anything I did a full inspection. That’s not a walk around with a tape measure; it’s getting under the deck and checking the frame member by member, because what you decide there determines whether the job is a resurface or a rebuild. Here the answer was clear enough: the boards were finished, the stairs were finished, and the front balustrade was finished. The frame was not.
The boards came up in full. The majority of the frame stayed — it was sound, and there’s no sense throwing away good structure to make a quote look tidy. Some rectification work was needed on it, which I did, along with additional framing to carry the breaker board and the picture framing around the perimeter. The front balustrade was replaced from scratch: new posts, stainless steel cables and handrail, matched to the existing balustrades on the sides so the whole thing reads as one. The stairs were rebuilt completely. The pergola didn’t need replacing, but it did need attention, and I carried out the remedial work while I was there.
The framing is treated pine. Where the existing timber needed it, I applied wood hardener rather than replacing sound members for the sake of it, and joist protection went on throughout — a capping tape over the top of every joist so water can’t sit on the timber where the boards meet it. That single detail is the difference between a frame that outlives the boards and one that quietly rots under a deck that still looks fine on top. It costs very little on the day and it’s impossible to add later.
Picture framing and breaker boards are what make a deck look finished rather than just covered. They only work if the frame is set up for them before a single board goes down, which is why the layout gets planned first and the extra framing goes in early.
A full rebuild, and not in one material. The bottom two steps sit close to the ground, so they’re built on Millboard LowDeck H4 framing, which is made for exactly that situation. From there up, the stringers are treated pine H3. Two different materials on one flight of stairs because two different parts of it face two different problems — the bit near the soil, and the bit that doesn’t. It’s the sort of detail that usually gets passed over. Not here.
Stairs take the most punishment on any deck and they’re the first thing people notice when they’re wrong. Getting them right is what makes the space easy to use rather than something you’re careful on.
New posts, stainless steel cable infill and a handrail matched to the existing sides. Cable balustrade keeps the view open, but it’s unforgiving work — the posts have to be dead straight and properly fixed, because the cables show up every millimetre of error.
Thirteen-plus years on the tools in Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs, and I work on one project at a time so the job in front of me gets the attention it needs. If your deck is heading the same way this one was, the first step is a proper look at it. Book a consultation.